Wall after damp proof plastering

Not sure which one you've got?

Rising, penetrating and condensation look similar and need completely different fixes. Jack will tell you which it is, free.

Torch-on felt being laid

Strip it back. Do it once.

We take the covering off, replace anything rotten and insulate to current regs before the new system goes down.

Elevation finished in flexible wall coating

Cracked render, stained walls

A flexible coating bridges hairline cracks and sheds water while letting the wall breathe. Ten to fifteen year finishes.

Skylight detail dressed into new felt

Jack, William and a small team

The person who quotes your job runs it, and answers the phone afterwards. Employed teams, £5m public liability.

Meet the team

Basement & cellar
tanking in Kent.

Below ground you're not dealing with damp — you're dealing with water pressing against the structure. That needs a waterproofing system, not a damp proof course.

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Why a damp course won't help

Below ground, water pushes rather than rises.

A wall above ground has one wet side and one dry side, and moisture moves through it slowly. A basement wall has earth against it, and after rain that earth holds water which presses against the structure under genuine hydrostatic pressure.

Injecting a damp proof course into a cellar wall achieves nothing, because the water isn't rising through the masonry — it's being pushed through it. What you need is a system that either resists that pressure or manages the water that gets through and takes it somewhere.

Get it right and a cellar stops being where the bikes live and becomes a room. Get it wrong and you've decorated a space that floods.

Signs a cellar needs tanking

  • Water on the floor after heavy rain
  • Wet patches or running water on the walls
  • White salt deposits across the brickwork
  • A persistent musty smell coming up the stairs
  • Rusting or rotting anything stored down there
  • Wanting to convert the space into a usable room

Tell us what you want to use the space for — it changes which system makes sense.

Our work

A wet cellar tanked, screeded and usable

A cellar taken from bare damp block to a dry, screeded, lit room. Drag across to see it. The finish depends on the use, but the waterproofing is the part that has to be right.

Cementitious · Cavity drainSystems
Sump and pump where neededIncludes
Screeded and levelledFloors
A room you can useResult
Basement before waterproofingBasement tanked and floor screeded
BeforeAfter
How we do it

Two approaches, and they suit different cellars.

There is no single right system. Which one we recommend depends on the water you're dealing with, the structure, and what you intend to do with the space.

We'll explain both and tell you which we'd use, and why.

  1. 01

    Survey the space

    Structure, water levels, where it's coming in, whether there's drainage available and what you want to use it for.

  2. 02

    Cementitious tanking

    A rigid waterproof render bonded to the walls and floor, resisting water pressure directly. Good for sound masonry and lower water levels.

  3. 03

    Or cavity drain membrane

    A studded membrane that doesn't resist the water but manages it, channelling it to a perimeter drain and a sump. Better where water volumes are higher.

  4. 04

    Sump and pump

    Fitted where the system needs it, with the discharge routed properly rather than into the nearest drain and hoped for.

  5. 05

    Floor and finish

    Screeded and levelled, ready for whatever the room is going to be.

Cellar you can't use?

Send us photos of the walls and the floor, and tell us what you'd want the space for. We'll tell you which system it needs.

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Straight answers

Basement and cellar tanking questions

What's the difference between tanking and damp proofing?
Damp proofing stops moisture rising through a wall from the ground. Tanking resists or manages water pressing against a structure below ground level. Different problem, different system — a damp course in a cellar does nothing at all.
Can a tanked basement be a living room?
That's usually the point of doing it. Once it's waterproofed, screeded and ventilated properly it becomes usable space. Building regulations apply if you're creating habitable rooms, and we'll flag what's relevant at survey.
Do I need a pump?
With a cavity drain system, usually yes — the membrane channels water to a sump and it has to go somewhere. With cementitious tanking in a drier cellar, often not. It depends on the water you're dealing with.
What happens if the power goes off?
Where a pump is critical we'd discuss battery backup at the survey. It's the sort of detail that matters more than the headline price, and it's the sort of thing worth asking anyone who quotes you.
Does it need servicing?
Systems with a pump do, and that's a genuine ongoing consideration rather than fit-and-forget. We'll set out what's involved before you commit.
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