Wall after damp proof plastering

Not sure which one you've got?

Rising, penetrating and condensation look similar and need completely different fixes. Jack will tell you which it is, free.

Torch-on felt being laid

Strip it back. Do it once.

We take the covering off, replace anything rotten and insulate to current regs before the new system goes down.

Elevation finished in flexible wall coating

Cracked render, stained walls

A flexible coating bridges hairline cracks and sheds water while letting the wall breathe. Ten to fifteen year finishes.

Skylight detail dressed into new felt

Jack, William and a small team

The person who quotes your job runs it, and answers the phone afterwards. Employed teams, £5m public liability.

Meet the team

Ventilation & condensation
control in Kent.

Condensation isn't a damp problem in the wall — it's moisture in the air landing on a cold surface. Anyone selling you a damp course for it is having you on.

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Genuinely free · No obligation
Why mould grows where it does

Warm wet air, cold surface, black mould.

A household generates a surprising amount of moisture — cooking, showering, drying washing indoors, even breathing. That warm moist air moves through the house until it meets a surface cold enough to make it condense, and then it deposits its water there.

Which is why mould appears in the same places every time: corners of external walls, behind wardrobes pushed against them, along window reveals and on cold cills. Those are the coldest spots in the room, and they're where the air gives up its moisture first.

Modern draught-proofing has made it worse. Older houses leaked air constantly, which was wasteful but moved moisture out. Seal a house up without adding ventilation and the moisture has nowhere to go.

Signs it's condensation

  • Black spotted mould in corners and around windows
  • Water running down the inside of the glass in the morning
  • Mould behind furniture against an external wall
  • Much worse in winter, better in summer
  • A musty smell in bedrooms and bathrooms
  • Damp on the surface rather than within the wall

None of this needs a damp proof course. It needs the moist air getting out of the building.

Our work

Small kit, large difference

Humidity-sensing extract fans, clear or new air bricks, and where the whole house needs it, a positive input unit in the loft that gently pushes fresh filtered air through the property.

Extract · Air bricks · PIVOptions
CondensationBest for
Pennies a dayRunning cost
Usually one dayTypical fit
Ventilation and remedial work in progress
How we do it

The least glamorous thing we fit, and often the most effective.

Nobody rings us excited about an extract fan. But where condensation is the problem, ventilation solves it for a fraction of what a mis-sold damp course costs.

And we'd rather fit a fan you need than a damp course you don't.

  1. 01

    Survey the whole house

    Where the mould is, where the moisture is generated, what ventilation already exists and whether it works.

  2. 02

    Rule out the alternatives

    Meter readings to confirm it's surface condensation rather than water in the fabric of the wall.

  3. 03

    Recommend the right level

    Sometimes it's an extract fan and unblocking an air brick. Sometimes it's a whole-house positive input unit.

  4. 04

    Fit and test

    Installed, wired, tested and left working, with the mould treated at the same time where needed.

  5. 05

    Practical advice

    What to change day to day — drying washing, lids on pans, keeping trickle vents open. Free, and it helps.

Black mould in the corners?

Send us a photo. If it's condensation we'll tell you, and the fix is usually far cheaper than you're fearing.

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Straight answers

Condensation and ventilation questions

Is black mould dangerous?
It's not something to live with long term, particularly for anyone with asthma or a respiratory condition. It's also straightforward to deal with once the ventilation is right — the mould is a symptom, not the cause.
Will a dehumidifier sort it?
It helps, and it's a reasonable short-term measure. But it's treating the symptom and costing you electricity indefinitely. Fixed ventilation deals with the cause and runs for pennies.
What is PIV?
Positive input ventilation. A small unit in the loft that continuously introduces fresh filtered air at a low rate, gently pressurising the house so stale moist air is pushed out through gaps and vents. Very effective in flats and well-sealed houses.
Do I need to leave windows open?
With proper ventilation fitted, no. Trickle vents and extract fans should handle it, which is the point — you shouldn't have to choose between being cold and being damp.
Could it be something other than condensation?
It can be. Cold bridging, a leaking pipe or genuine penetrating damp can all produce mould. That's what the free survey is for.
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