Wall after damp proof plastering

Not sure which one you've got?

Rising, penetrating and condensation look similar and need completely different fixes. Jack will tell you which it is, free.

Torch-on felt being laid

Strip it back. Do it once.

We take the covering off, replace anything rotten and insulate to current regs before the new system goes down.

Elevation finished in flexible wall coating

Cracked render, stained walls

A flexible coating bridges hairline cracks and sheds water while letting the wall breathe. Ten to fifteen year finishes.

Skylight detail dressed into new felt

Jack, William and a small team

The person who quotes your job runs it, and answers the phone afterwards. Employed teams, £5m public liability.

Meet the team

Rising damp treatment
across Kent.

Groundwater drawn up through the wall because the damp proof course has failed, been bridged, or was never there. It's also the most over-diagnosed problem in the trade — so we check before we inject.

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What rising damp actually is

Water climbing the wall, not falling down it.

Brick and mortar are porous. Left to themselves they'll wick moisture up out of the ground like a sugar cube in tea, which is why buildings have a damp proof course — a physical barrier near the base of the wall that stops the climb. When that barrier fails, water rises until gravity and evaporation balance out, usually somewhere around a metre.

It carries ground salts with it. Those salts stay in the plaster once the water evaporates, and because they're hygroscopic they pull moisture out of the air on their own. That's why a wall can stay damp-looking long after the water stops rising, and why replastering is part of the fix rather than an optional extra.

The tell is the tide mark: a horizontal band with a rough, salty edge above it, sitting low on the wall and present whatever the weather has been doing.

Signs it's rising damp

  • A tide mark roughly half a metre to a metre up the wall
  • White fluffy salt deposits along the top edge of the stain
  • Plaster blown, bubbling or crumbling low down
  • Skirting boards soft, or paint lifting at the bottom
  • It's there in dry weather as well as wet
  • Worse on ground floor walls only, never upstairs

If it's upstairs, or it comes and goes with the rain, it isn't rising damp — and a damp course won't help you.

Our work

Rising damp injected and replastered

A Kent solid wall taken back to the brick, injected with a new damp proof course, then replastered with a salt-inhibiting render. Drag the line across to see it.

SecoMURSystem
30 yearsGuarantee
Injected creamMethod
One to two daysTypical job
Wall stripped back showing rising damp damageThe same wall replastered and finished
BeforeAfter
How we do it

We rule things out before we rule them in.

Plenty of walls have been injected when the actual problem was a raised patio or an overflowing gutter. Injecting those walls achieves nothing except a bill.

So the survey looks outside before it looks inside.

  1. 01

    Check outside first

    External ground levels, paths, patios and flower beds. If the ground has crept above the internal floor, the damp course is bridged and no amount of injecting will help.

  2. 02

    Meter and inspect

    Readings across the affected wall and the ones either side, plus a look at the plaster condition and the height and shape of the staining.

  3. 03

    Written findings

    What we found and what's causing it. If the answer is to drop a patio rather than inject a wall, that's what we'll tell you.

  4. 04

    Inject the DPC

    Holes drilled at mortar-course level, SecoMUR cream injected, spreading through the masonry to form a continuous barrier.

  5. 05

    Replaster and hand over

    Salt-contaminated plaster off, salt-inhibiting render on, skimmed ready to decorate. Guarantee paperwork on completion.

Think you've got rising damp?

Send a photo of the wall. We'll tell you whether it looks like rising damp or something cheaper to fix.

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Straight answers

Rising damp questions from Kent homeowners

How do I know it's rising damp and not condensation?
Rising damp sits low on the wall with a tide mark and salt staining, and it's there regardless of the weather. Condensation shows as black mould in corners, around windows and behind furniture, and is worst in winter. They need completely different fixes.
Do I definitely need a new damp course?
Often not. Rising damp is heavily over-diagnosed. A raised patio bridging the existing course, or a gutter emptying down the wall, produces an identical stain and costs far less to put right. We check both before recommending injection.
What guarantee comes with it?
30 years on the injected damp proof course, using the SecoMUR system. You get the paperwork on handover — keep it with your deeds, because buyers and their solicitors will ask for it.
Why does the plaster have to come off?
The salts left in the old plaster attract moisture from the air by themselves. Leave that plaster on and the staining comes back through your new paint within months, even though the damp course is working perfectly.
How long before I can decorate?
New plaster has to dry thoroughly first, and painting too early traps moisture and ruins the finish. We'll give you a realistic timescale for your job and suggest a breathable finish for the first coat.
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